14 September, 2009, DMZ

Today I went somewhere I never in my life dreamed I’d go. The DMZ, demilitarized Zone. Yes, I used a Z (pronounced Zee not Zed), American spelling. For the DMZ was not a result of the American War, but certainly was at the heart of it. And it’s at the heart of many of my childhood memories as well.

I flew into Hue, an ancient city and once the capital of Vietnam completely enclosed by a citadel. I was met by a car and driver and we soon picked up a guide. Our destination? The DMZ and the Vinh Moc Tunnels. This is one of many, many tunnel systems that dot the Vietnamese countryside. It’s only 1 of 2 systems open the the public however. Vinh Moc is a little community just north of the 17th parallel, the DMZ. The Viet Cong used to come down the Ho Chi Minh Trail to Vinh Moc, go 28 KM’s to an island off of the coast and travel by sea down to S. Vietnam. It was the Ho Chi Minh trail by sea.

Vinh Moc was also the site of some of the worst bombing from the war. The American’s tried, unsuccessfully to cut off this route. The villagers decided that, instead of fleeing their home they would simply take it underground. Over 300 people lived in these tunnels for 6 years. 17 babies were born underground. It took 18 months to dig the tunnels by hand. The go down 23 meters. They were able to do this in secrecy because they are so close to the ocean. They could hide the dirt in the sea.

Vinh Moc was fascinating. The lengths people will go to! What they will endure if they have to.

The whole experience was surreal for me. It was so...well calm. Once almost completely barren from Napalm, the foliage has grown back or has been replanted with rubber or gum. Very few traces of American presence remain, bar a rusted out tank or the occasional jeep sporting “USMC” on its back bumper (have the repainted them or are they really that resilient in this tropical humidity that claims most things, including my hair.

The only marker is a small, unassuming one announcing the “Historical Relic” and something about 5K’s (the DMZ ran 5 K’s to the north and south of the Ben Hai River). They have also preserved the loud speakers where the North would broadcast propaganda across the river to the South.

My guide is extremely knowledgeable! He cited facts and figures all day. He’s too young to remember the war but his grandparents and his uncle fought. His grandfather for the north, his uncle for the south. Like many Vietnamese families, split.

I’m staying in Hue City, at the Gold Hotel. 5 star it is not and no Wifi, despite promises. But it is clean and for $28 US what more can you ask for?